This is an excellent intermediate area
for those interested in multipitch climbing.
Most of the classic routes are two to
three pitches in length and offer the
best moderate crack climbing in western
North Carolina. The classics are Bloody
Crack, Left Up,
Good
Intensions, Zodiac,
Gemini
Cracks, Second
Coming, and Rats
Ass.
To get there:
Follow 276 into the Pisgah National Forest
following the signs for the fish hatchery
and Pisgah Education Center. After about
5 miles the road will cross the Davidson
River. Turn left immediately after crossing
the bridge. Follow FS 476 past the fish
hatchery and turn right up FSR 476B. Follow
this up until you get to a sharp left
turn with a parking area on the right
and left. This is the trail head named
Slick Rock Falls, but climbers will know
it as the South Face trailhead. Stop and
check information at the kiosks for current
information about the area.
Important information to know
Two 60 meter ropes
are required to get down (and you’ll
need every inch)
It is about a 35
to 45 minute walk to the rock face
Cell phones are NOT reliable
The closest land based phone is at the fish hatchery
This place is popular with camps during the summer months
When
you get to the top of the trail, you should
be in the vicinity of Bloody Crack. This
is a crack system that leads up to a large
ledge system 60 feet up, called stage
ledge.
Bloody
Crack
The rating of 5.8 can fool you on
this one. Years of polishing has
made the move on this crux slick
as glass and more like 5.9. Most
people top rope this climb by scrambling
up the easy 4th class to the far
right of the ledge. If you are top
roping be sure to extend the anchor
past the top of the ledge, or the
climbing rope will become wedged
so badly that you can not lower
a climber. There are two cracks
within a few feet of each other
on the left side of stage ledge.
The climb on the right is Bloody
Crack. The crack climb on the left
is Right Up. It is not recommended
to lead Right Up, it has unreliable
protection and has been the scene
of a bad accident.
Bloody crack can be led, as you
can get great protection. It is
useful to be able to hand jam on
this one. You can belay in the corner
with #1 & #2 Camalots and 1.5
& 2 tri-cams. The second pitch
follows the corner to the roof and
exits left. It is helpful to have
a #4 cam on this pitch. Continue
face climbing to several options
for belaying.
Angle left
with the third pitch, aiming for
a cedar tree with slings. If the
face is running with water, you
will not be able to make it to this
tree. The rock is super slick when
wet. Rappel down and right to the
bolted ring anchor. This is above
Left Up and Right Up. Take the time
to top rope these climbs and the
face between them. They are fun
climbs to top rope.
Good
Intentions
Moving left from Bloody Crack you will
pass the cracks of Left Up and Right Up.
About 60 feet from Bloody Crack is a face
climb called Good Intentions. It is rated
5.6 and is one of the easiest climbs in
this area, but the protection is tricky
and you need to have the right gear. Your
rack should include small and medium stoppers,
small TCU’s (purple, blue, and yellow
Metolius cams), and some medium cams and
tricams for the anchor. There are no bolts
for an anchor, but there is a reliable
crack at the top of the first pitch next
to a small cedar tree. The climbing is
not hard but the protection is tricky
and thin at the crux; save your small
TCU’s for the crux which is 2/3
the way up.
The start is on what looks like a pile
of rocks, and then moves up and right
to a crack. Use your stoppers in the lower
half and save the cams for the crux. The
crux is after a large eyebrow. Be diligent
and look over each eyebrow carefully for
protection as it is easy to miss a placement.
The crux moves are all foot smears without
good hands.
To rappel from here, work up and right
until you are on a wide ledge. Move right
30 feet to a bolted rappel station. You
should be able to get down with a full
60 meter rope. If you want to top rope
the face, rappel down 20 feet and build
an anchor. Do not use the rappel anchors;
you will be short of rope.
To do the second pitch, move the belay
up to a ledge with a tree with slings
around it. Follow the right facing corner
up to this point. Climb the face to a
small roof. Protect with small TCU’s
here. Pull the roof and enjoy easy juggy
climbing to the top. Work towards the
tree island. There is a cedar tree with
slings to rappel from, or work left to
the bolts over Zodiac and Gemini Cracks.
