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Description of the
AMGA SPI Course
This course is designed to serve climbing instructors
in settings such as camps, universities, guide
services, or schools. Individuals who find themselves
taking beginners climbing would also benefit
from taking this class.
If you set up top ropes or manage rappel sites
this course applies to you. This course is specifically
for those who lead single pitch routes, manage
rappel sites, or set up top ropes with bottom
belays or top belays in an instructional setting.
The goal of the course is to develop the technical
skills, instructional skills, leadership skills
and judgment necessary to instruct in the single
pitch setting. The technical skills will include
knots, equipment, natural and artificial anchors,
extending anchors, backing up participant belays,
bottom belays, top belays, rappelling, bottom
rescue, and skills for assisting climbers. The
instructional component will develop the skills
needed for effective communication, coaching
skills, instructional progression, developing
lessons, and the skills to teach effective climbing.
The leadership component develops the ability
to manage groups, select sites, LNT practices,
and assess the site for the most efficient experience.
Finally, one will develop judgment skills for
recognition of risks and selecting appropriate
adaptations to reduce risk.
Course and Exam Description
The SPI Program begins with a three day course.
This course is 27 hours or three 9 hour days.
Each day will have an agenda of course instruction
and practical application followed by reading
materials for the next day. Each participant
will receive a course handbook for reference.
At the end of each day there will be a brief
review and overview of the next day’s
activities. Upon completion of the course each
participant will become an Associate Member
of the AMGA.
The exam is a two day exam (16 hours) that evaluates
the candidate’s ability to function in
the single pitch environment. The exam will
evaluate the candidate on leading ability (5.6
traditional routes), technical skills, leadership
and instructional skills. Upon passing this
exam the individual will be certified by the
AMGA as a Single Pitch Instructor. This certification
is good for three years as long as the individual
is current with his or her First Aid Certification.
Pre-Requisites for
Single Pitch Instructor Course To take the course you must: Have a genuine interest in rock climbing
and instructing novices on single pitch terrain.
Be 18 years old at the time of the course.
Have 12 months of climbing experience.
Be an active climber with traditional lead climbing
skills and experience.
Have lead 15 traditional routes of any grade.
Be capable of top roping 5.8 at the time of
the course.
These are the minimum pre-requisites
for the course. Many who take the course are
definitely above these standards. If you do
not meet these standards or are unsure, it would
be beneficial to hire an AMGA/IFMGA certified
guide to evaluate and recommend a course of
action prior to enrolling in the SPI course.
This course is not designed to teach you how
to lead, place protection or any basic skills.
This course is about teaching you to be able
to instruct climbing safely and efficiently.
Pre-requisites for the SPI Assessment
The goal of the assessment is to evaluate one’s
ability to lead, set up and manage climbing
sites. All of these skills are evaluated; please
be proficient in all skills. The assessment
component can be taken directly after successfully
completing the course IF the candidate meets
the assessment pre-requisites. To take the assessment you must: Have successfully completed an AMGA Single
Pitch Instructor Course or AMGA Top Rope Site
Manager course.
Have led a minimum of 40 traditional routes
with a large number of these routes at or above
the 5.6 grade. It is beneficial that these routes
be on a variety of rock types and styles.
Be able to lead the grade of 5.6 comfortably
and in control at the time of the exam. You
will be required to lead on the assessment.
Be capable of top roping 5.8 at the time of
the assessment.
Required Equipment List:
UIAA/CE approved climbing helmet
UIAA/CE approved harness with belay loop
Climbing shoes
Standard climbing rack assortment of:
SLCD four and three cam units
Stoppers
Tri cams
(8-10) Runners 24”
At least one 48” runner
16 or more standard carabiners
4 HMS locking carabiners
6 or more standard locking carabiners
Belay device: ATC, Reverso
Petzel Grigri or similar device
2 prussic loops (45” of 5mm cord)
2 cordelettes (21ft 7 mm cord)
1 climbing rope 9.5 – 10.5 recommended
1 static rope 9.5-10.5 (100 feet)
All gear will be inspected before the course
or exam and must be in good condition. Please
MARK YOUR GEAR.