Description of the AMGA SPI Course
This course is designed to serve climbing instructors in settings such as camps, universities, guide services, or schools. Individuals who find themselves taking beginners climbing would also benefit from taking this class.
If you set up top ropes or manage rappel sites this course applies to you. This course is specifically for those who lead single pitch routes, manage rappel sites, or set up top ropes with bottom belays or top belays in an instructional setting. The goal of the course is to develop the technical skills, instructional skills, leadership skills and judgment necessary to instruct in the single pitch setting. The technical skills will include knots, equipment, natural and artificial anchors, extending anchors, backing up participant belays, bottom belays, top belays, rappelling, bottom rescue, and skills for assisting climbers. The instructional component will develop the skills needed for effective communication, coaching skills, instructional progression, developing lessons, and the skills to teach effective climbing. The leadership component develops the ability to manage groups, select sites, LNT practices, and assess the site for the most efficient experience. Finally, one will develop judgment skills for recognition of risks and selecting appropriate adaptations to reduce risk.

Course and Exam Description
The SPI Program begins with a three day course. This course is 27 hours or three 9 hour days. Each day will have an agenda of course instruction and practical application followed by reading materials for the next day. Each participant will receive a course handbook for reference. At the end of each day there will be a brief review and overview of the next day’s activities. Upon completion of the course each participant will become an Associate Member of the AMGA.
The exam is a two day exam (16 hours) that evaluates the candidate’s ability to function in the single pitch environment. The exam will evaluate the candidate on leading ability (5.6 traditional routes), technical skills, leadership and instructional skills. Upon passing this exam the individual will be certified by the AMGA as a Single Pitch Instructor. This certification is good for three years as long as the individual is current with his or her First Aid Certification.

Pre-Requisites for Single Pitch Instructor Course
To take the course you must:
Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch terrain.
Be 18 years old at the time of the course.
Have 12 months of climbing experience.
Be an active climber with traditional lead climbing skills and experience.
Have lead 15 traditional routes of any grade.
Be capable of top roping 5.8 at the time of the course.

These are the minimum pre-requisites for the course. Many who take the course are definitely above these standards. If you do not meet these standards or are unsure, it would be beneficial to hire an AMGA/IFMGA certified guide to evaluate and recommend a course of action prior to enrolling in the SPI course. This course is not designed to teach you how to lead, place protection or any basic skills. This course is about teaching you to be able to instruct climbing safely and efficiently.

Pre-requisites for the SPI Assessment
The goal of the assessment is to evaluate one’s ability to lead, set up and manage climbing sites. All of these skills are evaluated; please be proficient in all skills. The assessment component can be taken directly after successfully completing the course IF the candidate meets the assessment pre-requisites.
To take the assessment you must:
Have successfully completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course or AMGA Top Rope Site Manager course.
Have led a minimum of 40 traditional routes with a large number of these routes at or above the 5.6 grade. It is beneficial that these routes be on a variety of rock types and styles.
Be able to lead the grade of 5.6 comfortably and in control at the time of the exam. You will be required to lead on the assessment.
Be capable of top roping 5.8 at the time of the assessment.

Required Equipment List:
UIAA/CE approved climbing helmet
UIAA/CE approved harness with belay loop
Climbing shoes
Standard climbing rack assortment of:
SLCD four and three cam units
Stoppers
Tri cams
(8-10) Runners 24”
At least one 48” runner
16 or more standard carabiners
4 HMS locking carabiners
6 or more standard locking carabiners
Belay device: ATC, Reverso
Petzel Grigri or similar device
2 prussic loops (45” of 5mm cord)
2 cordelettes (21ft 7 mm cord)
1 climbing rope 9.5 – 10.5 recommended
1 static rope 9.5-10.5 (100 feet)
All gear will be inspected before the course or exam and must be in good condition. Please MARK YOUR GEAR.

Course Cost $430

Exam Cost $230

Course Calendar