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AMI
Advanced Rock Course
This course is for those who have been following
leaders up routes, cleaning gear, belaying a leader
and are ready for the next step. A good leader
designs a protection system to reduce hazards
from lead falls, but also protects the second.
This course will answer several questions about
leading. How do you arrange protection to catch
the fall and not be dislodged by the run of the
rope system? When should I place gear? What should
I look out for when protecting the second? The
goal of this course is to set the foundation for
a lifetime of fun leading routes by developing
your skills and knowledge at protecting single
pitch climbs for both the lead and the second.
This two-day
course builds on the topics of the AMI Intermediate
Rock Course, and follows the instructional progression
of: fundamental skills, belay management, protection
systems, ascending, descending, and rescue skills.
If you have taken the AMI Intermediate Rock Course
you will see how the prior skills become building
blocks for the leading traditional climbs. This
course expands on prior knowledge, but builds
new skills for challenges facing leaders.
The AMI Advanced
Rock Course focuses on teaching you the skills
of rope management and protection systems for
leading a pitch, protecting both the leader and
the second. The course examines equipment, anchors,
belaying a leader and creating a protection system
that safeguards both the leader and the second.
You will understand the concepts of the fall factor,
what variables affect fall forces, and how to
choose the most appropriate style of belay for
the situation. Most of all, you will develop the
skills needed to analyze the situation and determine
the safest possible solution. During the course,
you will get to practice leading with feedback.
The benefits
from this course include:
• Understanding lead belaying and belaying
the second
• How to select the proper protection configuration
given the situation
• How to construct a protection system rather
than points of protection
• Protecting the second from hazards
• Methods for belaying seconds
• Rope management and efficient transitions
• Rescue situations for seconds
• Rappelling methods and backups
• How to read topo of routes
• Hazard assessment and avoidance
• Fall forces
This two-day
course builds through the topics of protection,
anchors, and rope systems, and ends with leading
pitches with feedback from the instructor. Participants
must have prior climbing experience following
climbs, building anchors with protection, and
comfortably top rope 5.6 climbs. You should have
some experience placing protection such as cams,
stoppers and tricams. The anchors course is a
recommended prerequisite if you have not had much
experience with placing protection.
Cost: $250
Duration: 2 day
Course size: 4 participants